Tired of your slow notebook burner?
Want to rip a lot of CDs – as I have in the last week?
Or maybe you’ve decided that, really and truly, you are going to get serious about backing up important data.

Adding an external burner – especially for notebooks – is a good option. And if you build one it is economical too. You can build a burner for $50-60 shopping online. Expect to pay a lot more at the local mall for a drive that may not be as fast or that supports FireWire in addition to USB.

Show and tell
This video is aimed at the lady across the street who – despite owning 2 computers, several cameras and a wide format inkjet to support her photography business – wasn’t too clear on the difference between disk “memory” and system “memory”.

This is for small business folks.

If you’ve installed a PCI card you’ll find this pretty boring. But a lot of folks haven’t and this video is aimed at them.

Caveat emptor
The video assumes an ATA/IDE drive, not a SATA drive. And case to match, natch. Most cases are IDE or ATA, but it appears that most of the new HD drives are SATA. They don’t mix and match.

If you want to play movies this probably won’t work. I’m not sure why, but decoding movies from DVD is more than simply being able to read or write the disk.

Without further adieu
Here’s the video:

Update: where does the audio plug go? It goes in about half an inch to the left of the big, fat ATA connector. Directly to the left of the ATA connector on my Samsung drive are a group of 6 pins with a plastic connector or jumper connecting two of the pins. Do not remove the jumper or attempt to plug the flat audio connector into the other pins. Unlike the other connectors the audio connector is not keyed. You can see the narrow horizontal slot – on the Samsung – it goes in.

I’ve never used the audio before and the questions got me wondering why anyone would. These are computer optical drives: if you don’t hook them up to a computer you have no controls. If they are hooked up to a computer the FireWire or USB cable carries the audio signals, NOT the case’s audio connector that goes to a headphone jack.

To check it out I just opened the case and tried to get an audio signal out of the case through the headphone jack. Couldn’t do it. So unless someone has a good reason for hooking up the audio cable to the headphone jack on the case I’d say it isn’t worth the bother.

Comments welcome, as always. Pretty slick opening credits, eh?

And I mention LightScribe, which is actually a pretty handy way to label a few DVDs and CDs without too much bother.